I must admit that unless a sweet contains chocolate or caramel, I consider it an impostor and have no interest in it. But I do look forward to holiday meals at my friend Ida Pinckus' house and have adjusted to the reality of the bland yet imaginative foodstuffs she serves. Although the mondel bread looks like a hand sander, it tastes pleasant enough. And though the first bite of a macaroon makes my mouth tense up and I have to pretend I don't notice the scratchy little coconut fibers braising the inside of my cheeks, I always manage to get at least one down.